Nomad’s Brass polishes up to give diners a glimpse of NYC’s golden age

Brass opened with 70 seats last month soon after its “sibling” location Tusk Bar, the same group’s rowdy cocktails-and-oysters lounge down the hall. Each is its very own venue yet given exactly how difficult tables are to come by at Brass, you can’t just pop in after you slosh your way via a couple of King Tusk martinis at Tusk.

American Wagyu steak and pork shoulder in mustard sauce, both purchased medium-rare, were under-done and over-chewy; even my beef-loving good friend who can consume raw armadillo found the steak challenging to tooth or blade (although he did complete it).

Hot with suede-and-leather banquettes, 1920s-influenced frescos and white tablecloths– and an antique piano in the middle of the floor– suggested a celebration waiting to begin. Black truffles and rich, autumnal sauces tint the menu without overpowering it.

Black truffles and abundant, autumnal sauces tint the menu without overpowering it. I liked crunchy tartlets of crab and maitake mushrooms with a tiny truffle on leading and pillowy ricotta gnudi. Steelhead trout with smoked trout roe and delicate citrus sauce was mouth-watering and pink under crisp skin.

The house was controlled on my first browse through, a Monday. Hot with suede-and-leather banquettes, 1920s-influenced frescos and white table linens– and an antique piano in the center of the floor– suggested an event waiting to begin. A couple of couples taken part in lonesome canoodles while others gazed up strangely enough through the skylight at a block wall surface.

Brass is the brainchild of the duo behind hugely popular bistro/wine bar Wildair, Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra. They joined proprietor Nick Hatsatouris to take control of what was formerly Benno, a high-end Italian place that succumbed to the pandemic.

The place catches fire on other evenings. On my recent Wednesday visit, the glamour level matched the food. Every dish should start with a ring of eight, buttery, Gruyere cheese gougeres that can fill you if you aren’t cautious.

Brass opened with 70 seats last month right after its “sis” location Tusk Bar, the exact same team’s wild cocktails-and-oysters lounge down the hall. Hatsatouris said customers may “start their night at Tusk Bar, after that transfer to Brass.” Each is its own location but offered just how tough tables are to find by at Brass, you can’t simply appear after you slosh your way with a couple of King Tusk martinis at Tusk.

Brass is a dining establishment that makes miss really feel younger. It has all the buzz of an Instagram-powered restaurant targeted at the Gen Z trust-fund group however with a higher comfort level, specialist service and a French-American food selection that makes “typical” seem stylish.

Tucked deep inside the century-old Evelyn Hotel at 7 E. 27th St., plush-and-pretty Brass is an Art Deco-inspired jewel box. Designed to evoke the “golden age” of New york city society, it’s the latest access in the mushrooming Wanderer hotel-dining scene, which now includes Cafe Carmellini at the Fifth Method Resort, Jose Andres’ Exchange and Zaitainiya at the Ritz-Carlton Wanderer and Cecconi’s at The Ned.

The breast and leg are wrapped in skin, packed with sausage and cut in rounds under a natural herb and truffle mousseline. The bird, deep- flavored and moist, graduated from B-plus to an A with a light bathroom of additional jus.